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Mine cut - 0.79 pts. 14K and Platinum
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Let's Explore
How To Buy An Antique Diamond Engagement Ring
Many people want to buy an "Antique Diamond Engagement Ring" but shy away from it
because, they think they are not informed enough to know what to look for.
Well, we want to give you the tools to go out there and buy the ring of your dreams.
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We consulted with "Reni" of our section of Living Victorian "Ask Reni", and she gave us
the fine points in which to look at when selecting your rings.
Let's begin.........
Reni gave us the background on how the engagement ring evolved as follows:
The recent tradition of engagement rings evolved from the earlier rings of "betrothal."
In 19th century England, the custom of separate engagement rings and wedding rings
became popular. In the 20th century it became fashionable to wear these rings
"en suite" or as a pair in matching styles.
Traditional engagement settings surround solitaire gems, usually, but not always
diamonds; the Victorian's often used pearls.
Diamonds, rated ten on the Mohs' scale, are the hardest natural gem stone.
Their durability make them the perfect solution, placed in a piece of jewelry
that has to be worn every day.
The DeBeers Consolidated Mines, Ltd., was founded by Cecil Rhodes in 1888.
It is still the largest producer of gem quality diamonds, controlling the supplies and
prices to the western world. Supplies were briefly curtailed during the Boer War
(1899 -1902) which affected jewelry fashion at the dawn of the Edwardian period.
Thanks to promotional efforts by DeBeers ("A diamond is forever") and Tiffany's classic
six-pronged setting, the solitaire engagement ring became a staple for jewelers in the
20th century.
We asked Reni the following questions we thought you would need to make an informed
decision when making your purchase:
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L/V
What type of diamond cuts were available during the Victorian, Edwardian and
Art Deco eras available?
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RENI
Old mine cut diamonds are what we find original to Victorian and Edwardian
settings. These diamonds have an extra facet on the bottom
(the culet was not shaped to a point yet).
Learning to use a 10X jewelers loupe can help determine the cut. (see diagram)
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Diamond cutting became more sophisticated in the early 20th century.
The European cut was used in the Art Deco period (1920's) and evolved into
the modern brilliant cut used today.
Although older cut diamonds are worth less per point, (100 pts = 1 ct.) the cut
is only one aspect of evaluating a diamond. I wouldn't want a new stone in
an antique setting, it would take away its originality.
Older cuts have a great charm to them and I can get twice as much stone
for my money.
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Full cut - 0.85 pts. Platinum
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L/V
What type of metal was used during those time periods?
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RENI
Yellow gold (and sometimes pink in 10k and 14K) was used in the Victorian Era.
Diamond jewelry was often silver-topped.
After the invention of the oxyacetylene torch in 1900, platinum became the
metal of choice.
During W.W.I and W.W.II, white metal was needed for war efforts.
It was not considered patriotic to wear much platinum or other white alloys.
Fine Art Deco jewelry was produced in platinum and white gold.
Bezels and prong tips are often done in these metals, even if the shanks are
yellow gold. This trend still exists today.
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L/V
What size diamonds were most typical during these time periods?
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RENI
In all periods, the size of a diamond depended on one's pocketbook.
Settings using smaller stones were popular during the early 1900's
(the Boer War, South Africa) and the 1930's (the Great Depression).
The 1 ct. solitaire is the typical DeBeers promotion these days.
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L/V
What era had the best diamonds, setting etc..?
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RENI
Modern cut diamonds (including square and fancy cuts, such as the princess, heart
shaped, brilliant, marquis etc.) are technically superior and are worth more per
point than older cuts of the same carat, color and clarity.
Even so, old cuts in larger sizes (over 2 cts) are sought after by new jewelers.
They like to recut them. I love the older cuts as they are, but the possibility of
recutting does enhance their values.
Antique settings have workmanship that we just don't see today.
The platinum filigree work of the Edwardian period is one example.
An antique setting that is to be worn every day, requires care.
Make sure the stones are secure and prongs are not worn.
Check for breaks in the filigree work and thinning shanks.
Have a good jeweler check and clean antique rings one or twice a year
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L/V
What do you look for when evaluating an antique diamond engagement ring?
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RENI
When I buy an estate or antique diamond ring, I send it to our certified gemologist.
He will make a worksheet and certification on the stone. These "certs" are the
diamonds fingerprints. No two diamonds are the same.
The customer who buys the ring from me will need these papers and my appraisal
for insurance purposes.
The "4 Cs" are important to understand when shopping for a diamond.
The "Cut" has letters of the alphabet. "Clarity" refers to visible inclusions
(clouds, carbon, feathers, etc.).
The "Color" of the diamond. Color grades of diamonds begin at "D" and
continue through the alphabet.
Colorless stones are very valuable and rare and are graded "D".
The "Carat" is the weight of the stone.
The "4 Cs" should be listed on all receipts and appraisals.
With the new techniques of fracture filling, and any clarity enhancement
should be disclosed.
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L/V
How to buy an antique engagement ring?
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RENI
1. Learn to focus a 10X jewelers loupe
2. Understand the "4 Cs"
3. Buy from a reputable jewelry
4. Make sure everything is written on receipts, appraisals, and certifications
Remember, "A diamond is forever!"
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Happy Exploring!
*The wonderful diamond rings we have pictured are available at:
Betty Gallagher Antiques, Inc.
266 E. Broad St.
Westfield, NJ 07090
908-654-4222
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